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Behavioral Problems
Educating yourself on possible behavior problems will assist you in deterring the problems if they should arise. Remember, these wonderful beings do not intentionally cause problems for you. When problems arise, have your veterinarian examine your kitty to rule out and physical reasons for the changes in behavior.
Problems that may arise are:
Aggression Cats on counter Noise phobias Older cats Litter box problems Urine spraying Scratching on furniture Stress Separation Anxiety Licking around the tail Sucking & chewing on wool
Aggression
Cats are very much like children. Aggression could be caused by several things. Multiple cat households may see aggressive behaviors because of territorial issues. Make sure you have plenty of hiding places, climbing post, toys a nd be sure to spend quality time with each cat. Have you noticed that when you take one of your kittys to the vet, upon your return your other kittys greet the kitty with aggression? This is due to the scent that the cat brings back from the vets office. The sense of smell is very important to a cat. The cat that visited the vet may be hissed at or slapped by the other cats because they do not recognize the cats as being their family member. Of course, after a few minutes of sniffing, hissing, growling and slapping, the other cats will recognize that they in fact do remember the kitty. Try rubbing a towel on one of the stay at home kittys. Rub it on the kitty that goes to the vet. If the kitty that goes to the vet smell like one of the stay at home kittys, perhaps it will curb the aggression upon returning home. Aging cats may show aggression toward people or other animals. In older animals, this aggression could be due to a medical problem. The pain from arthritis, hearing and vision loss resulting in the cat being easily startled or diseases that have direct effects on the nervous system. Stress can cause aggressive behaviors also. In these cases treating the medical conditions will help with aggression. You can teach the kitty a different response in aggressive situations. Be patient with your kitty. If necessary, consult an animal behavior specialist.
Cats on Your Counters
For some people, cats jumping on kitchen and bathroom counters is a problem, for others it is no big deal. If it bothers you, you will have to find ways to detour him/her. You can simply remove the cat from the counter and say firmly “no”. You can place coins in a can and shake the can at the kitty when he begins to jump on the counter. When you are not home, you could place tin foil on your counter (be sure to tape down) or place cookie sheets filled with water on the counters. Make sure that the cookie sheet are not on the edge of the counter. There are other devices like “scat mats” which will give a small electric shock when the cat jumps on them. Cats will jump on counters if things like food, glasses of water, fun things like pens, pencils, paper, etc. are left on them. Keep your counters empty and boring. Your cat will loose interest. Keep things interesting on floor level. Buy some new toys. Rotate toys so that the cats do not loose interest in them. Leave paper bags and boxes out for them to play in. Be creative.
Noise Phobia
Some pets are or become afraid of noises. The reason for this is unknown why. It is more common in dogs than in cats. Fear can soon become a phobia. Phobia is defined as: A persistent, excessive, and irrational fear response. Pets that are fearful of thunderstorms may also be fearful of storm-associated even ts. These events include, change in barometric pressure, smells associated with the storms, thunder or electrostatic disturbances. Thunderstorms, gunshots, firecrackers and even the sound of birds, can become a noise phobia. Noise phobias may be traced to certain bad experiences of a noise or event. Usually, we don’t know what has caused the phobia. If the owner tries to comfort the animal, unfortunately the animal interprets the comforting as a confirming sign that there really is something to be afraid of. Petting (in this situation) is a positive reinforcement of an undesirable behavior.
Signs of noise phobias:
Hiding
Urinating
Chewing
Panting
Pacing
Trying to escape
Drooling
Seeking owner
Not eating
Trembling or shaking
Dilated pupils
Vocalizing
There is no “cure” for noise phobia’s. You can try to reduce the fear. Refrain from rewards (comforting) or punishment. Even saying “It’s OK”, may be interpreted by your cat that it’s ok to be afraid. Treatment for fear phobia’s include: medications, changing the environment, and behavior modification. Ask your veterinarian for assistance.
Older Cats
Common behavior changes in older cats is common. These changes may include:
Inappropriate Elimination: Inappropriate elimination (urinating or defecating outside of the litter box, and/or spraying) is the most common behavior problems of older cats. There are many reason why and older cat may have this problem. Many of them are medical. A cat who has inappropriate elimination problems should be checked out by a vet.
Medical conditions resulting in an increased frequency of urination or defecation m ay be the underlying cause for inappropriate elimination. These medical conditions include: colitis, inflammatory bowel disease, hyperthyroidism, diabetes mellitus, kidney or liver disease, and feline lower urinary tract disease (FLUTD). Conditions which cause pain urinating or defecating, or make it difficult for your cat to get in an out of the litter box, may result in inappropriate elimination. These conditions may include: arthritis, FLUDT, anal sac disease, vision loss, and colitis. Your veterinarian will be able to assist your cat with diagnosis and medications. Place several litter boxes with lower sides (helps get in and out easier) around the house.
Stress: Stress can be a major factor in inappropriate elimination. Changes in family routine, makeup of the family or moving can be very stressful to your cat. If you are moving, while packing up, keep your cat in a quiet part of the house. Do the same when moving. When you get to the new home, confine your cat to a quiet room with its food, water, litter box, bed and toys. Be sure to spend plenty of time with your cat. Gradually introduce you cat to the new surroundings. When your cat urinates or defecates outside of the litter box be sure to clean the areas using enzyme cleaners.
Aggression:
A cat in pain (arthritis) may become aggressive. Cats with vision or hearing loss may become aggressive due to being startled. Diseases that have a direct effect on the nervous system can cause aggression. Consult your veterinarian to identify any medical problems. If your cat is medically ok, you will need to redirect its behavior. Learn what stimulates aggression and teach a different response. An animal behaviorist would be a great help.
Change In Activity Patterns:
Cats have a tendency to be active during the night, playing, keeping us awake, and then go to sleep when it is time for us to get up. Your older kitty is no exception. The difference is the cat is not playing, Your older cat may be in pain, may need to urinate or defecate more often. You may see your older cats appetite decrease. They won’t groom themselves as good as they used to. You may need to groom your cat more often and change their eating times. In addition to these changes, your older kitty may become more vocal. This could be due to the cat wanting more attention or it could be due to pain.. Remember, check with your veterinarian for medical problems.
As your kitty gets older there will be behavior changes (just as in humans). Be sure to rule out medical conditions, keep your older cat comfortable and give plenty of love.
Urine Spraying
Don’t confuse urine spraying with urinating. They are quite different. Urine spraying is a normal, innate territory marking behavior. Spraying is most common in non-neutered males and multi-cat households, however, neutered males and females can and will spray. They will spray on vertical surfaces such as, walls, doors, furniture and drapes. This is their way of identifying “their” property. There are a large number of chemicals in cat urine. This sends a message to other cats that the territory in question is already claimed or occupied. Spraying is a common behavior during the mating season with males and female “communicating” their availability.
Generally, spraying behavior occurs against vertical surfaces. The cat stands with rear leg straight, facing away from the object to be sprayed. The tail is usually erect and quivering while a stream of urine is directed towards the surface. Cats may make a treading motion with the hind feet while spraying.
Have your cat neutered. Have your cat neutered before he is 6 months old. More than 90% of cats will not start spraying if they are neutered before the behavior begins.
View of outdoors. Restrict the view of the outdoors. If your cat sees another cat outside a window, it is his natural instinct to mark his territory. You may need to move furniture away from windows and pull the blinds or close the curtains.
Positive relationship between humans and cats. Cats who get along in multiple cat households are less likely to spray. Give each cat equal attention and play with them. Have them eat and sleep together.
Keep a schedule. Often times changes in schedules causes spraying. Cats are creatures of habit. They like routine. Feed them at the same time each day, keep food bowls, water and litter boxes in the same place. When you have visitors, you may want to keep your cat in a separate room. Your visitor may have pets and the pets scent will be on them and your cat will smell the other pets. This may trigger a spraying response.
Clean. Clean thoroughly the areas that your cat has sprayed. You will need to u se products designed to remove the urine odor. Use products that have natural enzymes that will actually devour the odor causing bacteria. Covering up the scent will not work. Follow directions on the cleaner.
Try using a product called Feliway and Comfort Zone. These two products are a chemical copy of the facial pheromones present in cats. These pheromones result in an emotional calming, reducing the cats impulse to mark his territory by spraying. I am sure you have seen your kitty rubbing his face on furniture, cabinets, floors and even you. They are marking their territory with facial pheromones. (I have a multi cat household. Two of my male cats were in a spraying war. I used the enzyme cleaner and Feliway and Comfort Zone. They are not spraying anymore. They did not stop overnight but within about 2 weeks they stopped. You must be diligent with the cleaning and using the Feliway and be very patient with your cat). Both of these products reduces anxiety.
Scratching on furniture.
Cats scratching on furniture is a common complaint by people who share space with them. Many families will give up their cat for this reason. Cats scratch on furniture for two reasons. The one everyone associates with is “sharpening” their claws. More importantly is another reason. Cats scratch on furniture to leave their scent and mark it as their territory. There are sweat glands on the paws and between the pads of their feet.. They leave a scent that tells them “I have been here before”.
Recommendations: Don’t get rid of your kitty, yell or spank your kitty. He/she is only doing what is natural. Redirect your cats behavior. Get a scratching post. They are a little pricey but are worth every penny. Show your kitty the scratching post and take its paws and imitate your cats scratching. When kitty starts to scratch on your furniture, pick your kitty up and put him/her on the scratching post and show it how to scratch on the post. Place the scratching post in an area that your kitty spends most of its time. Cats tend to scratch when the first wake up. If your kitty has already scratched on your furniture, use an enzyme cleaner to eliminate the cats scent. After you have cleaned the furniture spray a cat repellent on the furniture. Cat repellent spray leaves an offensive odor to the cat but not to humans. Be sure to praise your kitty when he/she uses the scratching post.
Praise & positive reinforcement. When your cat uses the scratching post be sure to praise him/her. This reinforces the actions that you want. Remember, the earlier you start training the better.
Litter Box Problems
Inappropriate elimination not only occurs in aging cat but in younger cats. Again, be sure that there is no underlying medical conditions. Don’t assume that your kitty is ok medically. Once you have determined that your cat is medically sound, you can begin to determine why he/she is not using the litter box.
Dirty Litter Box Be sure to keep your kittys litter box clean. Cats are very picky about cleanliness. Just as we humans, they are turned off by a dirty bathroom. Whether you have one kitty or multiple cats, clean the litter box at least once a day. Also, be sure to provide one extra litter box. If you have 1 cat, provide 2 litter boxes, 2 cats, 3 litter boxes, etc. Some cats don’t like to urinat e and defecate in the same box. Be sure to wash out the box and lid every other week. Use only soap and water (never use pine-sol products or cleaning chemicals).
Litter Choice Your kitty may develop an oversion to the litter in the box. Some litters contain a “perfume” or “anticeptic” smell. This may be offensive to some cats. Try different kind of litters. There are numerous kinds to choose from. When changing litters, do it gradually. For about a week or two, use a 50/50 combination. Some litter instructions tell you that you only have to clean the litter box once a week, this is not a good idea. Encourage your kitty to use the litter box and praise your kitty when he/she does.
Box Location Your kitty may not like where the litter box is placed. Don’t place the litter box(s) near food and water, in high traffic areas or in areas where they may be ambushed by other cats. Try placing litter boxes in different locations. Be sure to show your kitty where the box is.
Again, be sure to clean the areas where your cat has urinated or defecated (outside the litter box) with an enzyme cleaner. Use a pet repellent or Feliway on the cleaned areas. You may need to confine your kitty to one room with food, water, toys and litter box. Once your kitty is used to using the litter box in a confined area, gradually allow your kitty into larger areas. DO NOT punish your kitty. It is not his/her fault.
Stress
Cats, more than any other pet, are creatures of habit. They can be very resentful of any changes in their routine or environment. Stresses can include changes in environment, physical and emotional.
Environmental Stress * Change in daily routine * To many animals in household * Confinement * Moving to a new house
Physical Health Stress * Fleas, worms, other parasites * Surgery * Illness * Physical trauma * Obesity
Emotional Stress * Death of an animal or human family member * Boredom, loneliness * Fear * Changes in the number of animal or human family members * Jealousy or rivalry
Anxiety in cats is revealed in a number of ways. They may groom excessively or not groom at all, chew inedible objects, refusing to eat, aggression and litter box oversion.
Try to figure out what is causing the stress and eliminate it. Some stresses will go away with time as the cats get used to the changes. If your kitty is dealing with health issues, work very closely with your veterinarian. I your kitty has a problem with another animal in the house, separate them temporarily, and gradually re-introduce them. This may take several weeks. Give each family individual attention, this includes playtimes.
Separation Anxiety
Yes, cats can and do suffer from separation anxiety. Contrary to what we have previously believed about cats being solitude animals, they are actually very social creatures. They form very strong bonds with both humans and other animals.
Singns A cat with separation anxiety may insist on being with you at all times when you are home. They will follow you from room to room. When you get ready to leave the house, the cat will sulk, hide or try to get between you and the door. Upon you returning home, your cat may be greet you with an abnormal enthusiastic greeting. When you return home you may find that your kitty has been destructive or urinated or defecated outside the litter box. You may notice hair missing from your kitty where they are grooming obsessively.
Treatment As with any problems, take your kitty to the veterinarian and have a complete physical examination. Have complete blood work performed so that you can rule out any underlying medical conditions. If your kitty gets a clean bill of health, you can begin to address the anxiety. You may want to consult an animal behaviorist due to the fact that separation anxiety is not completely understood in cats. Medications can be used for a short period of tim e. These medications could include, Prozac, Buspar, Paxil and Clomicalm. These MUST be prescribed and monitored by your vet. If you want to try handling this on your own, try making the cats environment more stimulating. Set up a perch or a piece of furniture at a window so that your kitty can look out. Place a bird feeder or squirrel feeder outside the window. This will keep kitty entertained. Climbing post with toys attached to it will be fun also. Leave the TV on (Animal Planet) or a radio. You can purchase cat videos. You may consider bringing another cat into your home for companionship. According to how severe your cats separation anxiety is, all of the above solutions may need to be tried.
Research is being conducted in this field. This research will give us more insight about the incidence, cause and treatment.
Sucking & Chewing on Wool....& Kneading
We don’t really know why cats suck and chew on wool. It seems to be more common in Siamese and Burmese cats. It is also more common in cats that were weaned early (at 2-4 weeks). This may not be the reason for the behavior, but may be somehow associated with it. Some young cats will suck on fabric, This may act as a pacifier for them. Most of these cats may grow out of the behavior. Cats who suck on fabrics run a great chance of swallowing pieces of the fabric. This could cause severe digestive problems and could result in the cat needing surgery. Discourage you cat from sucking and chewing on fabric. Keep your clothes picked up and keep your closets and drawers closed.
Kneading-Kittens knead their mothers teats to increase the flow of milk. A cat may continue kneading into adulthood. They may knead on you or a soft blanket or cushion. Kneading is a sign of happiness. Knowing this, try allowing your kitty to knead on your warm lap (even though it may hurt a little) to show his/her appreciation for you.
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